In the movie Soul Surfer, Bethany Hamilton said that she realized that life is a lot like surfing. If you get stuck in the impact zone, you need to get right back up because you never know what's over the next wave.
It's become sort of a cliché for me really- comparing lineups, whitewater and impact zones to different aspects of my life. I've mused on it too many times ever since I had my first go on a board. Lots of lessons are learned every time you get in the water.
Getting to the lineup is a mission in itself for a beginner like me, especially when the winds are blowing like crazy and the whitewater just keeps rushing at you, pushing you back to shore. You need to paddle hard, paddle strong. Learn to duckdive, learn to turtle roll. Look for the channel. Pray. Do anything to get past those breakers. Surfing teaches you a lot about perseverance and going for the goal.
At times though, I finally get to where I want to be, only to realize that the waves are too big for my level and I just end up sitting and watching the other surfers take on wave after wave. I've been advised to not go in over my head. It's more dangerous when you do, not just for yourself, but for the others in the lineup as well. Surfing teaches you to be humble.
Wave selection is key when you want to get stoked. Choose the wrong waves and you could end up wiping out, then you find yourself back in the impact zone, scrambling for air. Choose the right waves and you get the best natural high. Surfing teaches you to be patient and wait for the good stuff.
Sometimes, on your way out, a big breaker appears before you and you can't help thinking "oh crap, why am I here?" But you suck it up and push through anyway because you know that the lineup is just over it and you're almost there. And then there will be times, while sitting and waiting, you see a wave coming and it's bigger than your usual pick, but it's perfect, and you wonder if you can take it and make it. And you start paddling, because it could be a great ride if you get it. Surfing teaches you to face your fears, whether you know what's next or not.
At the end of a session, whether you got stoked or not, whether you rode 20 waves or none, you realize that at the end of the day, the ocean is a gift from God. You've been given it, not because you asked for it, or because you worked for it. It's just a gift. It's a gift that you're even allowed to play in it. And you also realize that nothing is really under your control. You could have the best skills in the water, you could paddle harder than anyone, you could do the most tricks. But every wave is different. Every day in the ocean is different. All you can do is make the most of what you're given. Surfing reminds you of grace, and God's power over all.
Lately, circumstances are forcing me to look back on all these lessons and take them to heart. We're caught in the impact zone, scrambling for air. But I know the good waves are just out there for the taking. Persevere, be humble, be patient, face your fear, surrender to grace. Paddle hard, paddle strong. It's like a mantra now. I have faith we'll get through eventually.*
(*If you ever get to read this, know that this is for you. For us. The lineup is just there and we have an endless summer to play in it.)
It's become sort of a cliché for me really- comparing lineups, whitewater and impact zones to different aspects of my life. I've mused on it too many times ever since I had my first go on a board. Lots of lessons are learned every time you get in the water.
Getting to the lineup is a mission in itself for a beginner like me, especially when the winds are blowing like crazy and the whitewater just keeps rushing at you, pushing you back to shore. You need to paddle hard, paddle strong. Learn to duckdive, learn to turtle roll. Look for the channel. Pray. Do anything to get past those breakers. Surfing teaches you a lot about perseverance and going for the goal.
At times though, I finally get to where I want to be, only to realize that the waves are too big for my level and I just end up sitting and watching the other surfers take on wave after wave. I've been advised to not go in over my head. It's more dangerous when you do, not just for yourself, but for the others in the lineup as well. Surfing teaches you to be humble.
Wave selection is key when you want to get stoked. Choose the wrong waves and you could end up wiping out, then you find yourself back in the impact zone, scrambling for air. Choose the right waves and you get the best natural high. Surfing teaches you to be patient and wait for the good stuff.
Sometimes, on your way out, a big breaker appears before you and you can't help thinking "oh crap, why am I here?" But you suck it up and push through anyway because you know that the lineup is just over it and you're almost there. And then there will be times, while sitting and waiting, you see a wave coming and it's bigger than your usual pick, but it's perfect, and you wonder if you can take it and make it. And you start paddling, because it could be a great ride if you get it. Surfing teaches you to face your fears, whether you know what's next or not.
At the end of a session, whether you got stoked or not, whether you rode 20 waves or none, you realize that at the end of the day, the ocean is a gift from God. You've been given it, not because you asked for it, or because you worked for it. It's just a gift. It's a gift that you're even allowed to play in it. And you also realize that nothing is really under your control. You could have the best skills in the water, you could paddle harder than anyone, you could do the most tricks. But every wave is different. Every day in the ocean is different. All you can do is make the most of what you're given. Surfing reminds you of grace, and God's power over all.
Lately, circumstances are forcing me to look back on all these lessons and take them to heart. We're caught in the impact zone, scrambling for air. But I know the good waves are just out there for the taking. Persevere, be humble, be patient, face your fear, surrender to grace. Paddle hard, paddle strong. It's like a mantra now. I have faith we'll get through eventually.*
(*If you ever get to read this, know that this is for you. For us. The lineup is just there and we have an endless summer to play in it.)
